Unveiling the Thrill: Austin’s Top Rock Climbing Destinations in Austin, Texas - Barton Creek Greenbelt

Greetings, fellow adventurers! As a seasoned rock climber and former resident of Austin, Texas, I have the privilege of sharing some of my favorite climbing walls and routes from around the United States. Today, I'm excited to share my insights about the best rock climbing areas in my former home of 8 years Austin, Texas starting with the Barton Creek Greenbelt. Strap on your harness and chalk up your hands as we delve into the heart-pounding world of rock climbing in the Lone Star State.

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Barton Creek Greenbelt

Urban Climbing Oasis

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If you prefer an urban escape without venturing too far from Austin, Barton Creek Greenbelt is your go-to destination. This area offers many great crags and routes hidden throughout the limestone cliffs of the Greenbelt. The unique blend of natural beauty and challenging climbs makes it a favorite among locals and seasoned climbers alike. Some of my favorite walls, crags and routes in Austin, Texas include:

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*** Please note that this is not the full list of available climbs at any of these walls or the total list of climbs I have done here. However, these are all routes that I have climbed and would recommend to someone else.

***Check out Mountain Project to view a full list of all the available climbs at the Barton Creek Greenbelt.

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a. Seismic Wall (AKA Maggie's Wall)

          1. Over Easy - Direct (5.9+)

                 - Description: This has to be my favorite route on Seismic Wall and probably one of my favorite climbs in the Austin                     area regardless of grade. It's a variation to the original route but in my opinion it climbs a bit better that the original.                     Climb some easy yet very polished rock down low before pulling a moderate roof up to a finger crack then finish at                      the anchors.

                 - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 40 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

           2. Over Easy (5.9)

                  - Description: The original Over Easy is still a close second on my list and another one of my routes in the area.                      Similar to the variation, you will climb some easy yet very polished rock down low. However, instead of going                      straight up and pulling the roof you will angle a little right to skip the roof section and use a small foot hold to                      balance over to the finger crack and finish at the anchors.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 40 feet, 5 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

           3. ACK! (5.11b)

                  - Description: This was one of my first 5.11's that I completed in Austin. It has a tricky and awkward start due to some                      sections of the climb being "off limits" to make the grade. After that section, you start traversing right on limited                      hands and feet for about 10 feet then up to the anchor to complete the route. It was a fun route and one I would                      definitely recommend to people, however, I'm not so sure on the 5.11 grade. It feels more like a mid 5.10 after                      reflecting on the climb.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 45 feet, 5 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

           4. Slimy Crack (5.10-)

                  - Description: This route was my nemesis for a long time when I first started climbing but it felt like a huge                      accomplishment when I finally sent it cleanly. It's marked by a large flared crack in the middle of the route.                      However, this is not a typical crack as it is very very greasy inside it which makes it a much more difficult climb than                      it looks because you can't find anything solid to hold or even chalk up your hands as your moving through it.                      Overall, this is a very rewarding climb to complete.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 40 feet, 3 bolts and 2 mussy hooks

           5. Just for Fun (5.10a)

                  - Description: This is a pretty interesting climb and has a much easier roof section unlike all the other climbs with a                      roof at Seismic Wall. You will start the climb by scrambling up a pretty easy section of rock before traversing up                      and to the left towards the left hand side of of the roof. From here, you will follow the crack on the roof to the                      anchors. This definitely was an enjoyable climb.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 40 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

           6. Magster (5.10a)

                  - Description: This climb has some fun moves but is the definition of a one move wonder. You will start by scrambling                      up a blocky section of rock to a short section of low angle slab. From here, you will get a nice ledge to hold onto as                      you start to work your fingers up a thin side pull before committing to the jugs that are just out of reach. Once you                      get the good holds above, reset the feet then work your hands and feet up some solid holds to the anchor.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 40 feet, 4 bolts and 2 mussy hooks

          7. Bird Dog (5.8)

                  - Description: This is a good climb for people working on getting over bulges with less than ideal holds (polished                      rock) or as a warmup for the day. The start can be a little tricky for some people because you have to get your feet                      up pretty high but have some decent hand holds to help work up the feet. Once you stand up start working up and                      over the bulge and to the anchors. This climb is great to help develop trust in yourself, and the mindset for climbing                      on smaller foot holds or working through less than ideal rock quality.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 40 feet, 4 bolts and 2 mussy hooks

           9. The Mongrel (5.9)

                  - Description: This is a very short but quality line at Seismic Wall. The crux is at the beginning of the route so a stick                      clip may be wanted for the first bolt. Begin on some solid feet and poor hand holds and work your way up and over a                      small bulge. Continue up the slab section for two more bolts and to the anchor. Due to how polished the rock is in                      certain areas some of the moves may feel a little more difficult than what you'd expect from a 5.9 climb.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 30 feet, 4 bolts and 2 mussy hooks

b. Gus Fruh

      Guide's Wall  

            1. Arete/Bulge (5.9-10a)

                  - Description: This route is another short and quality line located on the corner of Guide's Wall. It has a few variations                      to it which can make it harder or easier, and therefore can be enjoyed by climbers of all ability levels. If you're                      looking for the 5.9 variation then you will start underneath the arete and angle up and to the left avoiding the most                      difficult part of the route then cut back right towards the anchors. However, if you want something a little harder                      but still in the moderate range then consider the 5.10a variation. For this variation, you will start underneath the                      arete and work up some great holds straight to the anchors. Enjoy the pump of this variation.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 30 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

            2. Bulge Right (5.10c/d)

                  - Description: This is another variation to the route listed above. The Bulge (right) will provide a short and intense                      pump as you move through the overhanging sections of the route. This route is only accessible via top-rope as                      there are no bolts on this side of the wall, however all arete/bulge routes share the same anchor.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 30 feet, 2 mussy hooks, and tope rope only using the same anchors as for the                      arete/bulge

            3. Flash Crack (5.7)

                  - Description: All of the other routes located on Guide's Wall with the exception of the two routes listed above are                      beginner friendly routes for new climbers or other guided climbing services. Hence the name Guide's Wall. This                      route isn't exactly noteworthy, however, what makes this route interesting is the possibility of placing gear in the                      cracks instead of just clipping a bolt. Though you may still want to clip the first bolt for protection but you can                      definitely send this route on gear which is a rare thing for Greenbelt climbers.

                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 25 feet, 4 bolts and 2 mussy hooks

     Rubber Wall            

            1. Lifestyle (5.10b/c or 5.11b)

                    - Description: No matter which way you choose to do this climb, it is worth it. The first two-thirds of the climb are                        straightforward and pretty easy. The last section of the climb is where you get to make the choice of which                        variation of the route you want to do. If you choose to go right then you will be doing the 5.10b/c and you will work                        your hands and feet up some slopers until you reach a small cave then you will cut left and clip the anchors.                        However, if you go straight up to the anchors then you will be doing the 5.11b variation. This is a fun and delicate                        move to reach the next positive hold on a mono and less than ideal feet. This route is much easier if you have the                        height and can skip the difficult sections.

                    -Climb Information: 1 pitch, 30 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

            2. Magnum (5.11b)

                   - Description: This route was a work in progress before moving to Colorado and I got so close to sending it cleanly. It                       felt like a pretty stout 5.11b in the crux section above the second bolt compared to other 5.11's in the area.                       Unfortunately, in the middle of the crux section a small, intermediate crimp broke off which makes this route a                       little tougher. However, I still can't wait to attempt this route again.

 .                 - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 35 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

            3. Trojan (5.9)

                    - Description: This was actually the first climb that I took Link up during a small photoshoot for Nulo pet food. It is a                        great option for newer climbers or as warmup for those that are more experienced. The bottom section is very                        straightforward and easy. However, it becomes a little more thoughtful once you're above the 4th bolt as you are                        working off of some slopers. Once you reach the cave though reach inside and you'll find a bomber undercling                        which makes reaching the anchors very easy.

                    - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 30 feet, 5 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

            4. Sheepskin (5.10b)

                    - Description: This was definitely an interesting, but very awkward climb especially during the crux moves. The                        lower sections isn't too difficult and provides some good, fluid movements to the 3rd bolt. However, after clipping                        the 4th bolt there is an awkward move that feels like its missing something. Do you trust the limited hands and                        feet on polished limestone? Or do you beach wale it to the top of the cave and hope you will find a hand to help                        step up?  Though I've completed this route cleanly; I still can't figure out the correct beta. This route definitely felt                        harder than a 5.10b compared to others in the area.

                    - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 30 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

      Kingdom of Ging

            1. King of Ging (5.10b/c)

                    - Description: This is my favorite route located at Gus Fruh; and like Over Easy it competes for my favorite route in                        Austin. For the full experience, stick clip the first bolt and jump to the top of the cave before getting a heel hook                        and rolling/stepping into a giant ledge. After that, enjoy a fun and pumpy climb full of jugs and great movements                        all the way to the anchors. This was my last completed project in Austin and one I'm looking forward to hopping on                        again.

                    - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 55 feet, 5 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

            2. Grey Streak (5.10c)

                   - Description: This is another classic Austin climb at the Greenbelt. In my opinion, this route was easier than King of                       Ging even though the grade says something different. However, regardless of grade this is a climb you will want to                       do. Located right next to King of Ging; it starts by jumping to the top of a small cave and rolling/stepping into a                       large ledge. After that enjoy a less pumpy climb but one that is full of smaller crimps and slopey holds. Mind your                       foot positioning on this route for a more pleasurable experience.

                   - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 50 feet, 5 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

            3. Charlie Don't Surf (5.10d)

                   - Description: This is another great climb for people that want something a bit harder; or to help them break into                       more 5.11 climbs. The grade truly reflects the difficulty of the climb and you will have some interesting rock                       features that you will rarely see elsewhere in Austin. It starts a few routes down from King of Ging and has a very                       similar start. After reaching the first ledge start working a little left of the tufa on some small crimps and large                       bulges up to an alcove. Here you will find the crux of the route where you will use a half moon looking rock while                       stepping off a thin edge. After that, proceed to the anchors and enjoy the climb.

                   - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 40 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

            4. Black Streak (5.10c)

                   - Description: This is another pretty solid climb and one that I enjoyed doing. Overall, the climb is well protected;                       however, if you take a fall there is a potential for a large pendulum due to the location of the bolts. This climb starts                       directly to the right of Grey Streak and has a similar but much easier start. After reaching the top of the cave work                       your hands and feet up some small crimps and slopers all the way to the anchor. But be mindful because only the                       darker grey/black rocks are on route.

                   - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 50 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

       Myth Wall

             1. Rhea (5.10a/b)

                    - Description: This is a short but solid climb located on myth wall. It has a pretty tricky start as you work up through                        a minefield of small pockets up to a small dihedral. After you get through the dihedral section enjoy some easier                        climbing up to the anchors. Overall, this climb wasn't very noteworthy but it still has a few enjoyable moves.

 .                  - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 40 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

         Gus Fruh (AKA Fern Bar)

             1. Chicken Supreme (5.10a)

                      - Description: This is an enjoyable route, however, it is another one move wonder for Greenbelt climbers. It starts                          with a high first clip which is also the crux of the route so a stick clip may be wanted by some. After pulling some                          slopers and positioning your body up to the first small ledge then enjoy some 5.8-5.9 climbing the rest of the way                          to the anchors.

                      - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 30 feet, 3 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

             2. Heir Apparent (5.9+)

                       - Description: This is a highly recommended climb for both beginner and moderate climbers alike. It starts up a                           very textured section of limestone with great feet and decent hands up to a small overhang. Once at the                           overhang clip the first bolt and enjoy the best move on the route. For this move you will perform a layback on a                           deep incut rock then high step onto the outer portion of the roof and rock into a position where you can stand                           up. After that continue moving left and up to the anchors to complete the route.

                       - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 35 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

c. New Wall

           The Terrace

                 1. Either Way (5.7+ or 5.10a)

                        - Description: This route has two different variations and both are just as good in their respective rights. The 5.7 is                            a great variation and has an easy start where you will need to work your hands and feet up some decent sized                            edges and larger pockets to a small ledge. After that continue following the bolt line up to the overhang, then                            cut left and up to the anchors. On the other hand the 10a variation has a trickier start where you will need to                            work your feet up some smaller edges and reach up for a large and polished v-shaped incut before bumping                            your hands up to a thin ledge. After that continue following the bolt line up to the roof but this time you will work                            over the roof and to the anchors.

                        - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 45 feet, 5 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

                 2. Cactus Patch (5.10a or 5.11a/b)

                        - Description: Just like Either Way this route has two variations to it and both are exceptional climbs. The 5.10a                            variation was added after a key hold broke off. Due to this hold breaking off a new bolt was placed a few feet to                            the left to maintain the original grading. Whereas, the 5.11a/b maintains the same line as when it was originally                            bolted though much harder now. After you pass the first bolt both variations maintain the same line all the way                            to the anchors.

                       - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 45 feet, 5-6 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

                 3. Patch of Heaven (5.10a)

                         - Description: This route is a pretty new addition to the Greenbelt and is a combination of two previously                             established routes on this wall. For this route you will clip the first two bolts of Cactus Patch before an easy                             traverse to a ledge and then finish on the anchors for Heaven's Hug. This route is a little runout towards the end                             but provides some good exposure therapy if you're starting to push some harder grades.

                         - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 65 feet, 6 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

                 4. Crystal Blue Persuasion (5.10c)

                          - Description: This route was and probably still is my nemesis on this wall. It starts up a section of good hands                              and no feet until you reach a small ledge to stand on. After reaching the ledge you will have some easy climbing                              for two more bolts until you reach a large and pocket filled bulge. From here stick a little left of the last bolt and                              move through the pumpy crux over the bulge and to the anchors. Enjoy finding the positive holds at the end. A                              stick clip is recommended on this route due to a low crux move.

                          - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 45 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

           The Great Wall

                  1. Through The Looking Glass (5.11a)

                            - Description: This is an exceptional climb filled with fun and interesting moves that you won't get anywhere                                else on the Greenbelt. It starts with small dyno to a ledge and then utilizing some side pulls, counter pressure,                                and high feet to standup onto the ledge. From here you will move over a small roof and through a slabby                                section to a large overhanging bulge. Take a rest here if you need it then move right, over the bulge, and                                through the looking glass (aka the v-shaped rock) and to the anchors. This is a must do climb if you're ever                                climbing in Austin, Texas.

                            -Climb Information: 1 pitch, 55 feet, 5 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

           Geritol Wall

                  1. Cedar Fever (5.10d)

                             - Description: This is another great route located directly to the left of Prism and provides some good variety                                 throughout the entire climb. This route starts up some low angle limestone with solid hands and feet until you                                 reach the first small ledge. After reaching this you will clip your first bolt and angle right and over the second                                 small bulge which can be made easier by a high reach and mantle to the top of it. After that start angling left                                 and up to the anchors. This is a very enjoyable climb. Enjoy!

                             - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 45 feet, 5 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

                  2. Prism (5.9)

                              - Description: This is the furthest right and easiest route on Geritol's wall which is a great warmup for harder                                  climbs or for newer climbers. This route starts up an easy section of limestone full of pockets and edges to                                  clip your first bolt. After that, you will approach and move through a small overhang before angling right and                                  up all the way to the anchors. If you want to maintain the true 5.9 grad then maintain the bolt line all the way to                                  the anchors. If you want something a bit easier then stay a bit further right of the bolt line. On this line you will                                  get some larger hold and ledges while still maintaining the ability to clip. This line is most likely a 5.6-5.7.

                              - Climb Information: 1 pitch, 45 feet, 4 bolts, and 2 mussy hooks

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Conclusion

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Pack your gear, gather your climbing buddies, and embark on an adventure that will test your limits and leave you craving for more. Austin's rock climbing scene is thriving, and there's no better time than now to become a part of this exciting journey.

Austin, Texas, might not be synonymous with rock climbing, but the climbing community here knows the hidden treasures that await. From limestone cliffs to granite boulders, the diversity of climbing experiences in and around Austin is truly remarkable. Whether you're a beginner seeking your first ascent or an experienced climber looking for a new challenge, these rock climbing areas will not disappoint.

So, climb on and embrace the thrill of the ascent in the heart of Texas!

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Keep sending, Austin Wolff

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